Some general descriptions for wood luge construction.
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Disclaimer LugeForce and its contributors assume no responsibility for any personal injury or property damage resulting from the information contained within this site. This information is only provided as a general description of how to construct a wood streetluge. The information is not intended as a detailed guide for building a luge or a recommendation on how you should construct a wood luge.THESE ARE NOT DETAILED PLANS. PLEASE CONSULT EXPERIENCED RIDERS FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION THAT MAY ASSIST YOU. This luge is HAS NOT BEEN SPEED TESTED IN EXCESS OF 45MPH. Note: A luge uses kinetic energy - i.e. once it begins to move it will not stop without your assistance or until it makes impact with another object - and will potentially exceed speeds that are uncontrollable. Ride at your own risk, within your limits and always wear proper safety gear.
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The Rail section is the main section of the luge constructed with 2 x 4 sections. 3 separate pieces make up the board and include the leg section, torso section and head section. Each segment must be made to specific body specifications. ( diagram - not to scale )
leg section: bottom of feet to bottom of butt plus eight inches torso section: bottom of butt to middle of neck plus eight inches head section: middle of neck to top of head plus eight inches ( courtesy streetluge.net )
For the side Gussets use 1/4" plywood to construct to panels at the rear and two at the front to provide strength. The rear gusset also forms the headrest. Attach using 1 1/4" wood screws and glue to the drop sections. Additionally, make sure the grain of the plywood in the cut runs the direction of the 2x4s. ( diagram - not to scale )
The Seat Pan is made out of 1/2" plywood and is shoulder wide. No specific reason for the shape. Make sure that all corners are well rounded. Attach it to the rail with 1 1/4" wood screws , no glue. The handles measure 2" high , 11" long and 1" wide and be sure there are no sharp corners. Attach the handles from the bottom of the seat pan using 1 1/4" screws, washers and glue. ( diagram - not to scale )
The Foot-Pegs are made from a 1" hollow aluminum broom handle and a 7/8 " diameter wood broom handle each cut to 11 1/2". The metal provides added strength. The wood also helps with the strength but is also needed for attaching screws. Drill a 1" hole through the 2x4 about 11 1/12" from the front and slide both pieces of the foot pegs through. Attach the foot pegs with 2- 1 1/4" screws from the top and 1 from underneath.
The Nerf Bar is made out of a metal framing strap. It is 24" long and 1" wide with holes in it for nailing. Find the center of the strap and drill a hole large enough for a screw. Then attach the strap in the center of the face of the 2x4.(1) Bend the strap around the first 45 degree cut and screw the strap down.(2) Then screw the strap to the foot peg. (3) Repeat on the other side and cap the headrest with 1/4" plywood using glue and screws. ( diagram - not to scale )
Finish and Ride
Sand, putty, paint and mount the trucks and wheels. The front trucks are mounted close to the seat by most experienced riders. Note this shortens the wheel base. Some stability is lost in return for better steering/handling. It's recommended to research truck placement. Make sure you sand everything smooth, no splinters, round off all the edges and corners. Spray paint the rail and seat pan. Mount the trucks with 2" fine threaded (#10) screws with Nylock Nuts instead of lockwashers. Nylocks will reduce the chance of vibration "shaking" the nuts loose.Have fun, ride safe and always wear appropriate safety equipment with your new wood streetluge. ( diagram - not to scale )
Many pro riders have sites with photos for more reference or better yet, attempt to attend an organized sanctioned race to not only see a luge upclose but to also make further inquires about this and/or any other questions. Riders are thrilled to have your inquires.